FORMENTERA
Area: Formentera
Country: Spain


Location:
Smallest and most southerly of Balearic Islands. 11 miles S of Ibiza (30 minutes by hydrofoil; 1­ hours by ferry).

Telephone code from UK:
34

Website:
http://www.guiaformentera.com

Description:
A charming island of stone-walled fields, beautiful countryside and azure seas to rival those of the Caribbean, Formentera is a total contrast to bustling, commercialised Ibiza. Although tourism has been knocking at its door since the hippies discovered it in the 1960s, it refuses to be spoilt and offers an interesting combination of past and present, with many of the older generation still wearing traditional costume rather than the more usual T-shirt and shorts! At just 12» miles from E to W, the island is easy to explore and many of the track roads lead to what are reputedly the most beautiful golden beaches in the Mediterranean (especially those of Illetas and Levante), with naturism accepted on most of them. Sports are also at hand without becoming intrusive. Resort areas are as follows: LA SABINA (also spelt Savina), on the NW coast, offers an attractive harbour with a cobbled palm-lined promenade of shops and restaurants; there is a narrow golden beach off the beautiful, shallow lagoon. ES PUJOLS, on the NE coast, is the main tourist town with a long golden beach and souvenir shops; there is also an evening craft market along with buzzing nightlife and plenty of reputable restaurants. SAN FRANCISCO JAVIER, the quiet, centrally placed capital, boasts a pleasant atmosphere in cafes during the day, a few craft stalls, some upmarket shops, a quaint plaza and church. SAN FERNANDO is a quiet inland town with a handful of shops and good local tapas bars; Xeroni caves are on the outskirts. CALA SAHONA, on the W coast, comprises one hotel overlooking the bay. Splendid walks, but little else. LA MOLA, on the S coast, has an all-entertainment holiday village, set in lush surroundings leading down to Migjorn Beach; there is a hippie market every Wednesday and Sunday afternoon at nearby El Pilar. CA MARI, on the S coast, is a low-key resort of hotels, apartments and bars in a farming and beach area. ES CALO, on the NE coast, is the original Roman port and little more than a fishing village; a favourite spot for snorkelling.

Suitability:
Geared for sun-seekers wanting little more than a beach holiday. Not a cheap place to stay, as most products are imported. A mix of different nationalities gives it a laid-back, cosmopolitan feel.

Accommodation:
Apart from a couple of hotels and a holiday village, accommodation is in unpretentious hostels or apartments.

Shopping:
Very low key. San Francisco has the widest range of shops; Es Pujols has the best choice of souvenirs, with ceramics the most popular bargain.

Beach:
ILLETES and LEVANTE either side of the pinnacle of Formentera; depending on the wind, one side has rough seas and the other smooth. Both boast golden sands and good water sports. MIGJORN is the longest on the island, running for six miles along the S coast, but it's not one of the most beautiful: half sand, half rock, and sometimes overrun with seaweed. CALA SAHONA is a small but wide beach, normally clear, but again seaweed can prove a problem. Many other small beaches reached via various tracks.

Entertainments:
Daytime: sunbathing, water sports, tennis, horse riding and cycling are the more popular diversions. Nightlife: mostly based at Es Pujols, with lively music bars and two discos. The rest of Formentera retires early, apart from a transformation that occurs in July and August in the sleepy village of San Fernando, when hordes come to pay homage to the "Fonda Pepe" bar, giving the normally tranquil high street a great cosmopolitan atmosphere.

Eating:
As a rule, the food is average Spanish/European cuisine from paella to pizza, with the odd speciality restaurant. Good-quality fish restaurants are to be found, many serving "rao", a small fish with a tropical appearance claimed to be exclusive to the waters of Formentera. Don't go home without trying the island's traditional date and almond cake, either!

Public-transport:
A public bus service runs between all major towns, but it can be unreliable. Taxis can be found in towns and hire cars are readily available. The more traditional way of exploring is by bicycle, however.

Local-excursions:
Half day: Xeroni caves outside San Fernando; coach trip to El Pilar village and hippie market. Full day: "Robinson Crusoe" boat trip with barbecue; coach trip around island, stopping for drinks and local cheese.