HELSINKI
Area: Finland


Location:
In the S of the country, on the coast facing Estonia across the Gulf of Finland. 95 miles W of the Russian border. 500 miles S of the Arctic Circle. 80 miles E of Turku. 12 miles S of Vantaa international airport.

Telephone code from UK:
358 9

Website:
http://www.hel.fi

Position:
Set on a rugged pine-covered peninsula where the river Vantaa meets the Gulf and Baltic Sea. The city and its suburbs are situated on a largely flat headland with numerous islands scattered just off the coast.

Description:
Just 8 miles from N to S and with around 600,000 inhabitants, this compact capital boasts the easygoing nature of a lively provincial town, a strong maritime heritage and quirky friendliness that have made it an increasingly popular tourist destination. It was founded in 1550 as a sea-trading outpost and remained a backwater until Russia annexed Finland in the early 1800s _ an influence still architecturally evident today in the city's gracious 19th-century boulevards and historic grid-like centre, which was modelled on that of St Petersburg. Owing to heavy bombing during World War II, however, most of the city is now sleekly modern, old blending comfortably with new. Most places of tourist interest can be found in a neat central zone incorporating the neoclassical Senate Square dominated by its imposing cathedral, the lively market square beside the S Harbour and the elegant Esplanadi for designer shopping. The islands just off shore are another lure for visitors, particularly Suomenlinna, an 18th-century island fortress. The city is also becoming known as one of Europe's party capitals, brimming with lively nightlife, and on Friday and Saturday nights it scarcely seems to sleep.

Suitability:
Still mainly business travellers but an increasing number of leisure visitors, too: mature couples enjoy the culture, history and architecture; the younger generation go for the vibrant nightlife. More of a summer destination (June to August) unless looking for something very different: temperatures drop to well below freezing in winter and there is very little daylight.

Accommodation:
Caters largely for business travellers so can be expensive. Predominantly middlemarket accommodation, of a generally high standard and mostly concentrated in the city centre close to the main railway station. Several budget options and a selection of premium properties.

Shopping:
Wide range, from enticing markets to upmarket fashion stores. The best hunting ground is in the streets around the city centre _ notably Mannerheimintie, Fredrikinkatu, Aleksanterinkatu and Esplanadi. Stockmann is Helsinki's best-known department store but the centrally based Forum Shopping Centre has a good range of outlets; the Itakeskus Shopping Centre on the city outskirts _ easily accessible via public transport _ is one of the largest in Europe. The harbourside market (Kauppatori) boasts a diverse mix from fresh fish to handicrafts; there is also an indoor food market nearby for local delicacies. The Kruununhaka district just off Senate Square specialises in antiques. Best general buys are Finnish glassware, ceramics, furnishings and kitchenware; textiles, furs and leather goods are also of high quality while wooden craft items make popular souvenirs.

Beach:
In summer swimmers use the city lakes; three of the islands have good beaches.

Entertainments:
Daytime: walking tours of the city covering Senate Square, Market Square and Sederholm House (the oldest building in town). The impressive Uspenski Cathedral and Temppeliaukio church (built into solid rock). Boat tours including trips to nearby islands of Seurasaari _ with its open-air museum of Finnish life _ and Suomenlinna, the old fortress. Parks include Sibelius (with a steel monument to the famous composer), the rocky Kaivopuisto (right on the headland) and the Linnanmaki amusements. Plenty of museums and galleries, such as the Museum of Art and Design, the architecturally arresting Museum of Contemporary Art (Kiasma) and the Mannerheim Museum. Many sport and leisure facilities like golf, swimming, ice skating and boating; saunas are also popular, especially in winter. Nightlife: many lively pubs, bars and nightclubs. Free concerts in the city parks during the summer. Classical music concerts at Finlandia Hall. Helsinki is also home to the Finnish National Theatre, Opera and Ballet, with regular performances. Many cinemas featuring English-language films.

Eating:
Interesting variety from enticing cafes to a la carte Russian restaurants _ but eating out can be expensive, particularly at Russian and Finnish establishments. Lunch times are a good bet for cheaper fare as many eateries have set menus and locals tend to have their main meal at this time. Ethnic cuisine (Chinese, Indian etc) is fairly limited although fast-food outlets and hot-dog stalls are plentiful. Local food favourites include reindeer in many guises (such as burgers and sausages), fish (salmon in particular), roast meats, potatoes and vegetables.

Public-transport:
An efficient network of buses and trams operates across the city together with a limited Metro system. Tourist tickets or the Helsinki Card (which includes entry to many museums) are good value. Much of the city can be covered on foot; bicycle hire is a popular alternative in summer. Trains leave the main station for many regional and national destinations, including a regular service to St Petersburg in Russia. Also frequent car ferries to Russia, Germany, Sweden and Estonia. Taxis can be hailed on the street.

Local-excursions:
Full day: trips to the many off-shore islands, including the zoo on Korkeasaari; the picturesque wooden town of Porvoo; the lakes region, including the winter sports centre at Lahti and scenic Tampere. Two days: the Aland Islands (off SW coast of Finland); St Petersburg in Russia by ferry or train; Tallinn in Estonia by ferry.