LUXOR
Area: Egypt


Location:
East-central ("Upper") Egypt. 310 miles as crow flies, but 416 miles by road S of Cairo; 125 miles N of Aswan; 170 miles SW of Hurghada. 4 miles NW of Luxor airport.

Telephone code from UK:
20 95

Website:
http://www.tourism.egnet.net

Position:
On E bank of River Nile in completely flat terrain. Splendid views across river to cultivated flood plain on W bank and impressive bare hills of ancient Thebes beyond, where tombs and mortuary temples of the Pharaohs are located.

Description:
Even ancient Greeks and Romans visited Thebes, as it was then called, to see the wonders there, which were centuries old even then. Now it is the start or finish point for Nile cruises to or from Aswan. Focal point of the town is Luxor Temple. The old town lies immediately behind it and stretches only 500 yards or so E to the railway station. The main hotels, better shops, banks, civic offices and travel bureaux are all situated along the main street: the Corniche or promenade. The outer suburbs offer little of interest to the tourist before the landscape changes to flat agricultural land. Karnak, 2 miles N, has now grown to join with Luxor with no perceptible break between, and buildings also continue beyond Karnak Temple as far as the Hilton hotel. Constant offers of tourist services _ taxi, caleche (horse-drawn carriage), felucca trips and general guiding services can be wearing. However, the general feeling is one of welcome and street crime is not evident, especially since the massacre of tourists visiting the Temple of Hatshepsut in November 1997, since when security has been dramatically increased. Armed, uniformed soldiers guard all major hotels, attractions and offices. The possibility of Islamic Fundamentalist attacks on tourists in Egypt remains. Foreign Office advisory notices offer the latest official advice and should be consulted before booking.

Suitability:
For Egyptologists and those interested in ancient history, monuments and cultures, Luxor is a "must". Also a winter resort with genuine sunbathing weather, with wondrous temples and tombs an added bonus. The extremely hot summer months constitute low season.

Accommodation:
Hotels outside the centre are quieter with more relaxing settings. Those nearer the centre are more convenient for sightseeing without transport. Standards are not as high as elsewhere, so 4-star is probably the lowest category acceptable to most tourists. 3-star hotels used by tour operators will usually provide clean with very simple accommodation with little charm and few facilities.

Shopping:
Scruffy souk and bazaar-type shopping streets open till late at night in the old town. Near the promenade is a "Tourist Bazaar" where the shopping experience is less intimidating and bartering is not as severe as in the souk. Many larger hotels also have small arcades of shops in them or attached, where shopping is civilised but prices are by no means fixed. Most of the usual souvenirs like inlaid wooden boxes, alabaster, ceramics, leather goods etc can be bought at fixed prices (which are the same as you eventually arrive at after hard bartering elsewhere) at the well-established A A Gaddis shop near the entrance to the Old Winter Palace hotel. The "Egyptian market" or "camel market" (on the other side of the railway tracks) _ to which caleche drivers will try to entice you for ridiculously cheap fares _ is an experience for only the hardiest of travellers. What would you do with a camel, ox or live chicken anyway?

Beach:
None. Most hotels have gardens with swimming pools. Only fools and horses (usually caleche drivers and their nags) bathe in the Nile.

Entertainments:
Daytime: Luxor Temple right in the centre of town. Karnak Temple. Luxor Museum (air-conditioned) displays items from temples and tombs including Tutankhamun's. An extra gallery shows large statues from Karnak discovered only in 1991. Feluccas (traditional sailing boats) offer short trips. Nightlife: hotel Novotel's disco on a boat; themed dining out (sometimes with folklore show). "Son et Lumiere" show at Karnak Temple (in winter wrap up warm for this, as temperatures plummet to near freezing at night).

Eating:
Mainly hotel-based with a good range of table d'hote, a la carte, coffee shop light meals, pizzerias, Chinese, Italian, themed special meals, buffets etc. A few good-quality local restaurants; the brave can go ethnic in the cheap restaurants around the railway station.

Public-transport:
Taxis abound outside hotels; agree the fare before setting off. They can also be hired cheaply by the hour or the day for sightseeing. Caleches also act as taxis. Flights, trains (12 hours) and long-distance buses to Cairo. Frequent ferries cross the Nile from Luxor to the West Bank (Thebes). For visiting antiquities there, ensure you get the tourist ferry from the landing stages outside the Winter Palace or Mercure Coralia hotels, as it goes to the ticket office for all West Bank monuments. Tickets must be bought there in advance and not at the sites themselves. The cheaper "workers'" ferry goes to a different landing stage.

Local-excursions:
Karnak and Luxor Temples _ by bus or caleche (daytime, half day). Hot-air balloon rides. Various day or half-day combinations of sites in Thebes Necropolis on the W bank, including: Valley of the Kings, Colossi of Memnon, Valley of the Queens, Tombs of the Nobles, Workers' Village, Temple of Queen Hatshepsut, Ramasseum etc. 64 tombs at the Valley of the Kings have been excavated _ including Tutankhamun's and the wonderful restored tomb of Queen Nefertari _ but only a few are ever open at one time. Further afield to Esna and Edfu: Temples of Khnum and Horus (full day). The Temple at Dendera (38 miles, half day). Abydos: Temples of Seti I and Ramses II (day). Various cruises from 1 night to 3 nights. Side trips to Cairo, Aswan and Abu Simbel.