MOMBASA
Area: Kenya


Location:
In the SE corner of the country on the coast. 300 miles SE of the capital, Nairobi, 70 miles S of Malindi. Moi International Airport is 6 miles W of town.

Telephone code from UK:
254 11

Position:
On the Indian Ocean occupying an island in a creek. Linked to the mainland by causeways and bridges, and for points S by the Likoni ferry. No beaches on the island but good sand extends N and S on the mainland for up to 30 miles. These are covered under their own resort sections.

Description:
Second only to Nairobi in importance and size. It has long been a major trading post with oriental contacts which have led to the city's Middle Eastern feel, its Arabic "old town" and the traditional Arab sailing dhows in its harbour. Fort Jesus, built by the Portuguese in 1593, overlooks the old town and old harbour entrance. 20th-century Mombasa with its wide avenues and low-rise buildings has a relaxed atmosphere.

Suitability:
Something to suit most tastes and all pockets from budget package tourists to upmarket independents _ but definitely not for those seeking paradise. Plenty of contact with people, history, and overwhelming sensory stimulation.

Accommodation:
Central Mombasa has plenty of budget and mid-range accommodation, but only a handful of upmarket properties. The nearest beach resort is at Shelly Beach, on the mainland S of the city.

Shopping:
A good selection of shops in the old town selling antiques, jewellery, clothing and bright khanga (cotton) fabrics. Mackinnon market offers an abundance of fruit and vegetables. Moi Avenue is the main central shopping area.

Beach:
Shelly Beach is reached via the Likoni ferry, and faces both Mombasa and the Indian Ocean, but is not Kenya's most pleasant. Narrow or non-existent in places, it can also be strewn with garbage or tar from oil tankers. Take shoes for walking on coral at low tide, but not safe to wander around after dark.

Entertainments:
Daytime: the Portuguese-built Fort Jesus has a museum with displays of Swahili culture, local ethnology and archaeology. Tennis, squash, badminton and volleyball, golf in the Nyali area a few miles N of the city. Water sports: deep-sea fishing, scuba diving, glass-bottom boat trips, windsurfing, sailing and snorkelling. Offshore coral reefs fringe the whole coast, between half a mile and a mile out to sea several of which are designated marine parks . Nightlife: a handful of discos in the centre, some very rough and popular with prostitutes and their punters; the smarter ones are located in the mainland beach resorts, easily reachable by taxi.

Eating:
Good choice of local fast-food outlets offering coconut, fish, chicken, rice and beans mainly with Asian flavours. The centre has better restaurants serving Chinese, Indian and seafood. Snacks and drinks available from the wide selection of juice bars around town, many open 24 hours.

Public-transport:
Taxis are the usual means of getting around, but fares should be agreed before setting off as they are quite expensive. Car hire is available but also expensive and the road conditions are poor. A daily overnight train goes to Nairobi. Frequent buses to N to Kilifi and Malindi, and daily early morning departures for Lamu. The Likoni ferry links Mombasa to the coast southwards, carrying cars and foot passengers; there are frequently queues for it. Public "matatus" (pick-up minibuses) go everywhere but tend to be overcrowded, confusing and in poor condition. At night, especially, it is unwise to walk anywhere and visitors are recommended to take taxis.

Local-excursions:
Mombasa city tour _ by bus including the old city, harbour and bazaar. Bush tours _ by bus, inland village, folk dancing and handicraft displays and snake farm. Shimba Hills _ game reserve. Dhow Safari with lunch. Mamba Village _ for crocodiles. Bamburi quarry nature trail. Full day: Wasini Island _ picnic lunch, snorkelling at an island off the S coast. Malindi and Gedi ruins _ by bus 75 miles N of Mombasa. Lamu Island _ by air then boat to the Swahili town of Lamu. Tsavo East National Park _ early by bus/jeep, 70 miles from Mombasa, game park with much wildlife including giraffes, rhinos, gazelles, elephants and a water hole for night viewing. Overnight at a lodge. Longer stays here can be arranged as can safaris further afield to Amboseli National Park with Mount Kilimanjaro as its backdrop. A day trip by air to Amboseli is offered by some ground operators.