PENANG
Area: Malaysia


Location:
2 miles off the Malaysian peninsula's NW coast, 230 miles N of the capital, Kuala Lumpur. Bayan Lepas airport is on the island's S tip. A toll bridge connects it to the mainland.

Telephone code from UK:
60 4

Website:
http://www.penang.net.my

Position:
Much of Penang's development is in the coastal areas, with jungle-covered hills behind and industrial zones between the airport and Georgetown. A narrow road winds above the N shore from Georgetown to the main resort areas.

Description:
A sizeable oblong-shaped tropical island with a largely unspoilt, hilly jungle interior, Penang is Malaysia's most established holiday destination. It first found popularity in the early 1970s as a safe version of Asia, albeit with a rather staid ambience compared to the more vibrant, exotic destinations such as Thailand's Phuket, Indonesia's Bali and the rapidly developing Langkawi Island to the N. The principal tourist development has emerged along the N coast, centring on unsophisticated Batu Ferringhi some 20 miles N of the small airport and 11 miles from Georgetown. It is little more than a mile of coast road lined with largely self-contained beachfront hotels supported by a motley array of simple tourist services, shops and restaurants. The more residential Tanjung Bungah area a couple of miles to the E has its own handful of hotels and is gradually increasing its appeal. Georgetown is the island's main manufacturing centre and transportation hub. Despite the explosion of modern high-rise condominiums, office blocks shopping centres and factories, it still has a number quaint shopping streets, traditional houses and stately, colonial mansions.

Suitability:
Best suited to water sport enthusiasts, the middle-aged or older couples not seeking too much excitement or adventure. Batu Ferringhi is generally flat and quite suitable for the elderly or disabled, although they might find the heat and humidity uncomfortable.

Accommodation:
Batu Ferringhi boasts a good choice of mostly 4- and 5-star equivalent beachfront properties, some dating back to the 1970s. Georgetown has several good business hotels, private and rented condominiums as well as a host of more basic motels and hostels providing spartan amenities.

Shopping:
Batu Ferringhi has a few small shops selling souvenirs and beach necessities, in addition to several money changers and pushy Indian tailors. Stalls selling a variety of goods set up along the road at night. A wider selection of articles and some sophistication at one or two air-conditioned shopping complexes in Georgetown.

Beach:
The long white sandy beach at Batu Ferringhi is not as nice as it looks: it shelves steeply, pollution is a problem with several filthy streams running into the sea and churned-up sand makes the water murky. Bathing areas are often cordoned off by floating buoys to protect swimmers from speeding jet-skis and water-skiers. Jellyfish, particularly at rainy times, can be a problem. Access to Tanjung Bungah's beaches is often by a series of steps down a steep slope and once reached there is little more than a strip of sand festooned by rocks.

Entertainments:
Daytime: water sports and tennis at the larger beachfront hotels. Island excursions include hill and jungle trekking. Two 18-hole golf courses. Weekend horse racing at the Penang Turf Club. Nightlife: pretty low-key even in high season. Centred on the hotel bars, local musicians and a number of karaoke lounges.

Eating:
Principally traditional Malay, Chinese and Indian fare at very reasonable prices, although the quality can vary. Most visitors stick to the hotel offerings. Beware street vendors _ the food looks and smells tempting, but hygiene and quality is often suspect. Bottled water is advisable.

Public-transport:
Taxis are generally unmetered, leading to haggling and the occasional rip-off. The ones at the airport operate by a prepaid voucher system. Car and minibus fares are cheap in comparison to Europe but still agree the fare before boarding. An infrequent bus service links different parts of the island, but they are crowded, uncomfortable and best avoided unless it's a short hop. Car, jeep, and moped hire are popular, although local driving skills leave a lot to be desired. Bargain over the fare before getting into one of Georgetown's trishaws. Regular ferries link the main town, Georgetown, to the mainland.

Local-excursions:
Most sights can be covered in half-day or day trips. Botanical Gardens. Fort Cornwallis. Snake Temple. Kek Lok Si temple's Pagoda of Ten Thousand Buddhas. Butterfly farm. Penang Hill's funicular railway and panoramic views. Georgetown's Chinatown. Pewter factory. Rubber, clove and nutmeg plantations. The odd fishing village.