TORTOLA
Area: British Virgin Islands
Country: British Virgin Islands
Location:
80 miles E of San Juan, Puerto Rico; 515 miles N of Caracas, Venezuela. Local airport on Beef Island (connected by bridge to Tortola), 6 miles E of Tortola's capital, Road Town.
Telephone code from UK:
1 284 284
Website:
http://www.bvitouristboard.com
Position:
Towards NW end of the Leeward Islands, one of the westernmost of the British Virgin Islands.
Description:
Measuring 21 square miles, Tortola is the largest of the British Virgin Islands, as well as the location of the island group's capital. A ridge of high hills runs the 11-mile length of the island, reaching its highest point, 1,780 feet, at Mount Sage. Covered mainly by dense, low growth, it is also peppered with mango trees, banana groves and palms. A one-time haven for pirates, attracted by the island's many sheltered harbours and small bays, Tortola in the 18th century became important for its sugar plantations and its role in the slave trade. Today it is an upmarket tourist destination, favoured for its unhurried atmosphere, fine, quintessentially Caribbean white-sand beaches and clear waters. Because there are many quiet bays and calm waters with land always in sight, this and all the Virgin Islands offer some of the best sailing in the world. In fact, the best way to see the island is undoubtedly by boat, as much of the sea coast is not easily accessible by road. Like the rest of the British Virgin Islands, Tortola remains relatively undeveloped. What development there is is confined to the capital, Road Town (also home to most of the island's 13,500 inhabitants) and scattered pockets around the coast. The capital is little more than a tiny commercial centre with simple weatherboarded low-rise buildings colourfully painted. Tortola is more American than anything else, with US dollars the official, and only, currency, and offshore banking and tourism the main industries. Most locals have several jobs to keep up with the enormously high cost of living here and spend Sundays in church.
Suitability:
Distinctly upmarket, with most visitors arriving on their own yachts or on cruise ships. Nevertheless, all types of holidaymakers seeking a relaxing, low-key, water-based break, from families to honeymooners, do come here.
Accommodation:
No chain hotels; one local-style operation with 130-odd rooms is the largest. Mostly low-key and on their own bays. Some small exclusive establishments. Even the more upmarket places are rustic, retreat-style affairs rather than luxurious. Most are intimate and do not offer anonymity; decor is likely to be homely and service laid-back. Some self-catering and timeshare properties and campgrounds. A main road often runs in between the hotel and the beach, which can give even the smallest operation an urban feel.
Shopping:
Extremely limited and of little interest, apart from some locally produced goods (including pottery) that are worth taking home. Road Town has a few boutiques, a small area of beach market stalls selling tie-dye beach gear, but on the rest of the island even buying basic supplies can be difficult. The capital's "department store" is a tiny, ramshackle, single-storey building the size of a newsagent's. It is a good idea to bring toiletries and any other goods you may need, as prices are very high and availability low. Rum is a popular local buy.
Beach:
Lots of small, sandy coves, most with very little development, usually just one hotel or guesthouse. Seven stunning white-sand beaches fringed with vegetation, all on the N (Atlantic) coast: Smuggler's Cove, Long Bay, Brewer's Bay, Friar's Bay, Josiah's Bay, Cane Garden Bay (one of the liveliest at night, although still pretty tame) and Apple Bay (popular for surfing). Apart from a few small sandy bays, the S coastline does not have any beaches. As throughout the British Virgin Islands, there are no private beaches, so visitors from yachts are allowed to moor and come ashore wherever they like, although hotels usually manage to reserve one section for their guests. Some beaches are accessible only by boat. Topless sunbathing (and wearing revealing clothes off the beach) is deemed offensive.
Entertainments:
Daytime: beach activities, diving, deep-sea fishing, sailing and assorted water sports. Boat trips to other islands. A few historical buildings, a tiny folk museum and botanic gardens in Road Town. Nightlife: small-scale and low-key; live bands play on a regular basis in some hotels and restaurants.
Eating:
Restricted to the island's hotels (which may have buffets or barbecues during high season), and a few local restaurants. Choice is limited and prices high because very little is grown here. The absence of fast-food eateries or snack bars makes it is almost impossible to economise. Cuisine is American- and West Indian-influenced (with Caesar salad and jerk chicken popular dishes), though Road Town has an Italian and Chinese cafe. Seafood, especially lobster, chowder, chewy conch and mahi mahi (a perch-like ocean fish), is common, along with steak and pasta. Vegetables are often frozen, apart from local yam, plantain and callaloo (similar to spinach). Popular local drinks include rum and Carib beer, which many islanders drink any time of the day.
Public-transport:
No public transport, but taxis are regulated and not too expensive. Shared taxis are often available and are much cheaper. Cars can be hired, with driving on the left, although four-wheel-drive vehicles and nerves of steel are necessary for the rollercoaster-like roads. A local driving licence must be purchased. Ferries to neighbouring islands, including the US Virgin Islands (passport required), as well as water taxis.
Local-excursions:
The taxi association organises local excursions around Tortola, including an island tour and a visit to Mount Sage. From Road Town you can catch the ferry for day trips to neighbouring islands (passport required for American Virgin Islands). Alternatively, rent a boat for the day, visit Norman Island and look for buried treasure.