St JOHN
Area: US Virgin Islands
Country: United States Virgin Islands


Location:
In the NE Caribbean, 45 miles E of Puerto Rico. Main airport is on St Thomas, 10 miles away.

Telephone code from UK:
1 340 340

Position:
Towards NW end of the Leeward Islands chain; 30 miles N of St Croix.

Description:
With more than half of the island set aside as national parkland (thanks to a bequest from the philanthropist Laurence Rockefeller), St John offers peace and quiet, and plenty of it. Encircled by coral reefs and rimmed with pristine white-sand beaches, this hilly, tree-clad island (measuring only 19 miles by 5) is popular with nature-lovers and solitude-seekers; favourite activities include hiking in the forest, camping and snorkelling. At 1,277 feet, Bordeaux Mountain is the highest point. Peaceful, lush and green as it is, though, one would never have guessed that in the 18th and 19th centuries St John was a flourishing centre for the cotton, sugar and rum trades, and in fact the site of a slave revolt in 1733. Like its companion islands, St Thomas and St Croix, St John has been an American possession since 1917, and though American influences are everywhere, the island is essentially Caribbean. The tiny, pretty main town of Cruz Bay, affectionately known as Love City, has a sense of a real community.

Suitability:
One million (mostly American) tourists visit each year. Many of them are day-trippers from boats or yacht owners who come to walk the trails or to snorkel. Suitable for those who appreciate nature. Not a budget destination, as everything is relatively pricey.

Accommodation:
Mainly expensive. Two sprawling resort hotels either side of Cruz Bay have bagged eight beaches between them. Some mid- to low-range hotels, but, again, nothing comes cheap here, not even the campsites (one within the national park area).

Shopping:
Just the essentials and souvenirs, though even these can be in short supply. Most goods have to be imported and are consequently expensive. The handful of prettily painted shops in Cruz Bay (including the tiny complex of Mongoose Junction) are good for mooching and have some interesting gifts. The free port on the neighbouring island of St Thomas offers the only real shopping opportunities.

Beach:
39 in total and some of the best in the Caribbean: small, sheltered, palm-fringed stretches of fine white or beige sand lapped by turquoise waters and backed by lush foliage and shady palm trees. Some have designated swimming areas away from boats. Those on the N shore can have dangerous surf. Hawksnest is good for snorkelling; Trunk Bay has a popular underwater snorkelling trail. Cinnamon Bay has campsites and water sports available.

Entertainments:
Daytime: beach and water activities, especially snorkelling and boating. Sea kayaking; windsurfing. Fishing. Horse riding. Exploring island and beaches. Walking in the national park along trails and up Bordeaux Mountain. Bird-watching. Ruins of 18th-century Annaberg Plantation. Nightlife: mainly in the hotels, with some live music in basic bars in Cruz Bay.

Eating:
What little there is can be found in Cruz Bay. Mainly American and Caribbean-influenced cuisine; lots of fish and lobster, often in creole sauce. Some Mexican dishes. Guests in the two large hotels tend to make use of the several in-house restaurants. A handful of fast-food options.

Public-transport:
No bus service. There are taxis, plus hire cars; driving is on the left. Ferries (including car ferries) run regularly to St Thomas from early morning to late at night and three times weekly to the British Virgin Islands (passport required).

Local-excursions:
Two-hour "safari bus" tours around the national park. Jeep tours. Boats for hire. Tours to other islands, including the British Virgin Islands (passport required).