GAMBIA
Area: Gambia


Location:
A third of the way down the W coast of Africa, surrounded on 3 sides by Senegal, midway between the Tropic of Cancer and the Equator. The capital, Banjul, is at the W end of the country, at the mouth of the Gambia River. The Atlantic coast resorts are located between six and thirteen miles farther W. Yundum International Airport sits 18 miles S of Banjul.

Telephone code from UK:
220

Website:
http://www.itnet.co.uk/gambia

Position:
Less than 20 miles wide, the Gambia consists of a narrow strip of flat land either side of the river extending the entire 300-mile length of the country. Mostly dry grassland or open savannah woodland, few areas of the original sub-tropical forest remain. Most of the tourist resorts are concentrated on its Atlantic coastline in the extreme W of the country.

Description:
The capital, Banjul, is a small busy port at the mouth of the river Gambia with little, apart from Albert Market, to entice the tourist and a "down at heel" ambience nurtured by the maze of narrow back streets with their shanty-style dwellings. The main tourist area is further S along the Atlantic coast where sandy beaches and a hot climate attract European package holiday makers in the peak winter months with high temperatures and dry weather. Whilst still maintaining an African feel, the predominance of international restaurants and bars and the comparatively high standards of the hotels in the resorts of Cape Point, Bakau, Kotu and Kololi reflect the impact of tourism on this part of the country. Along this 6 mile strip of beach are about twenty hotels. However, tourism remains low-key compared to other beach resorts worldwide and there are plenty of opportunities to experience Gambian entertainment and culture. Most people speak English since it is taught in schools, although their first language will be tribal. The majority of Gambians are Muslims so sensitivity to dress code is appreciated. The local people are extremely welcoming and friendly, but due to high unemployment and lack of welfare state, tourists are seen as targets for purchasing goods and services _ postcards, food, jewellery, local handicrafts, services of a "guide", anything may be offered. Many visitors complain about "beach boys" or "bumsters", young men who can be very persistent with their sales techniques. However, beaches are patrolled by tourist police and hotel security guards which prevents the situation from causing too much hassle. General rules of security apply _ it is not advisable to carry too much cash or valuables and quiet, dark streets should be avoided after sunset. All hotels provide safe-deposit boxes in rooms or at reception and taxis are stationed outside every hotel.

Suitability:
Sun, sea and sand are the main attractions for beach-seeking holidaymakers predominantly from the UK, Germany, Holland and Belgium. Nightlife is tame and will not appeal to keen "clubbers". Bird watching, with a huge number of species to spot, is a major attraction.

Accommodation:
Hotel standards have improved greatly and a few reach international levels. Most accommodation is located on or near the beach to benefit from the Atlantic breeze. Guest houses are appearing along the tourist tracks; some limited accommodation is available for adventurers up-country.

Shopping:
Away from hotel gift shops, the best bargains are to be found in markets where bartering is essential: expect to pay no more than half of the original asking price. Wood carvings, jewellery and brightly patterned materials are popular buys. Local tailors make garments to individual specifications at short notice. Albert Market in Banjul is large and entertaining with a craft market catering mainly for tourists.

Beach:
Stretching all the way from Fajara southwards into Cassamance (S Senegal), the beach is splendid _ soft, fine sand with a few rocky outcrops and palm trees. Even around the hotels the beach is generally uncrowded and unpolluted, although it is not unusual to see stray cattle. All beaches are public but hotels claim stretches of sand, providing security guards and loungers. High, frequent Atlantic breakers coupled with strong undercurrents demand caution. Most beaches have a flag system indicating safe times and areas for bathing. In the river estuary from Cape St Mary to Banjul the beaches are less enticing _ soft sand mixed with silt giving a blackish colour _ but the swimming is safer.

Entertainments:
Daytime: water sports with instruction offered at some hotels. Sea and river fishing. Horse riding on the beach. Squash, tennis and an 18-hole golf course at Fajara Club. Wrestling matches. Banjul has a fascinating museum charting the history of West Africa. Nightlife: mainly restricted to hotels or bars and restaurants nearby. A few beach bars open late. The atmosphere is informal and dressing up is not required. Most hotels offer "African Nights" featuring local music and dance. A casino in Kololi.

Eating:
A wide variety of restaurants in the Atlantic resorts. International cuisine includes Italian, French, Chinese, Indian, Caribbean with standards almost universally high. Prices fluctuate from excellent value for money to London levels. Some Gambian dishes are available with two venues offering only local food. Fresh fish and seafood are tasty and good value. Taxi drivers will quote return fares to restaurants with two hours waiting.

Public-transport:
Most tourists use taxis, available at hotels. Local taxis _ usually minibuses_ are very cheap and act as buses but can be very crowded. Car rental for the brave-hearted.

Local-excursions:
Taxis can be hired for day trips but local tour companies offer organised trips bookable through reps at hotels. Tours vary from half day to three nights and cater for most interests. The most popular trips include: half day: City Tour of Banjul _ general orientation with visits to museum, Albert Market and tie-dying or batik-making premises. Bird and Breakfast _ early start bird watching along creeks in dug-out canoes and breakfast at Lamin Lodge set on stilts overlooking a mangrove creek. Camel Safari along the beach. African Experience _ an evening visit to a village for local food, drink and entertainment. Gambian Groove _ a "pub crawl" to bars and restaurants in the main resorts. Champagne and Caviar _ an extravagant evening cruise through the creeks, other trips take in the nature reserves at Abuko and Bjilo Forest and a crocodile farm. Full day trips: 4 Wheel Drive Adventure _ a jeep tour into the S of the country stopping at local schools, villages, Tanju fishing village and the beach. Roots _ the home of Alex Haley's Kunta Kinte and the site of a slaving station. Oyster Creek _ by pirogue through the mangrove swamps. Jinnack Island _ ferry, 4WD through the bush and voyage along the mangrove swamps near the Senegalese border to a paradise island for sunbathing and relaxation. Full day trips include food. Two-day trips: Tendaba Camp _ upriver with an overnight stop. Three-day river excursions to the E of the country exploring the wildlife and rural culture.