HERSONISSOS
Area: Crete
Country: Greece


Location:
On Crete's N coast, 17 miles E of Heraklion and 23 miles NW of Aghios Nikolaos. Heraklion airport 16 miles W.

Telephone code from UK:
30 28970

Position:
On the NE-facing shore of a large bay, stretching for about 2 miles on both sides of the busy main coast road and filling a narrow coastal plain that rises to the foothills of the Dikti Mountains where several small villages, slowly merging into one owing to tourist development, overlook the resort. To the W lies a wider undulating agricultural area with small fields, polythene greenhouses, olive groves, a scattering of tourist accommodation and the large village of Analpsi. The resort's E fringes virtually run into the neighbouring resort of Stalis.

Description:
Hersonissos is a real mixed bag of a resort, with numerous villages and rural areas lumped together with a substantial and busy town that forms the main resort centre. The main town is basically a modern construct, and although there are no tower blocks, its historic past, as evidenced by a scattering of small ancient ruins, is largely lost from view. Nowadays the focus is a substantial harbour area with numerous bar-eateries on a busy raised waterfront stretching along most of the resort's length; periodically there are steps down to small unimpressive beaches. Just inland is the long, lively central commercial area where a good selection of bars, shops, tour agencies, restaurants and nightlife flanks the main road that continues to be busy despite the addition of a bypass to take most heavy vehicles and some of the traffic. The town straggles E before virtually merging with the more focused neighbouring resort of Stalis. The resort also encompasses the traditional villages of Koutouloufari, Piskopiano and Old Hersonissos, which sit a mile or so inland on the hillside overlooking the main town. These are much quieter and more picturesque despite modest modern development causing them to slowly merge and presumably one day become a single entity. To the W of the main resort are large areas of low hills and open farmland dotted with small tourist accommodation blocks and several large hotels; beyond lies the more substantial village of Analipsi. Most accommodation here is well-removed from commercial amenities and local alternatives can be limited. These more rural locations tend to have access to substantial though less developed beaches _ only those associated with larger hotels have more facilities.

Suitability:
A mixed resort offering a catch-all holiday cocktail and no particularly outstanding attributes. The main resort is a busy town with an attractive water front and a healthy nightlife, bringing young and more mature guests side by side. Less suited to beach connoisseurs or those looking for a traditional town. The outlying hill villages and W coastal agricultural areas suit more independent holidaymakers seeking a quieter, less commercial environment.

Accommodation:
A wide choice of apartments, from the absolute basics to attractive modern developments, but all reflect the simplicity characteristic of Greece. Good selection of hotels, from a few small and homely places to large, dated B&B tourist establishments and a handful of superior options offering varying degrees of comfort and luxury.

Shopping:
Good supply of minimarkets and bakeries. A wide range of souvenir shops offer everything from tacky plastic trinkets and T-shirts to quality locally produced crafts and artwork. Locally produced leather is good value, as is Cretan pottery and crochet work. Numerous shops offer herbs, spices and foodstuffs produced and gathered in the mountains.

Beach:
The town beaches of the main resort are small and tend to get crowded in high season, making the poolside a better option for those staying in the main resort. The only reasonable central option is slightly W of the harbour and a good trek from most accommodation. Farther W are good-sized, undeveloped stretches of coarse sand, which, while serviceable, do not match the stereotypical image of pristine tourist beaches; these tend to be more appealing when adjacent to larger hotels which provide loungers and shades. Much of the coastline is rocky, with sunbathers perched just above the water or on tiny pockets of sand flanked by boulders; some of the sandy beaches have rocky sea entry.

Entertainments:
Daytime: topping up the tan by the pool or on the shore. Open-air museum of traditional Cretan life. A couple of water parks. Full range of water sports, from scuba diving to para-sailing. Hill walking. Self-drive tours of local villages. Nightlife: bars and restaurants along the raised water front. Main road and side streets are also busy with eateries, watering holes, games arcades and shops that stay open until late at night. Reasonable selection of nightclubs and bars, some with live music, offer entertainment into the early hours and beyond.

Eating:
Wide selection of mid-range taverna-style restaurants serving traditional fare, pizza and pasta dishes. Local fast-food joints. Local fish is widely available, with a couple of speciality restaurants. Dining tends to be relaxed and casual, with formal dining limited to a few small a la carte options in the larger hotels. Some Chinese and Indian restaurants.

Public-transport:
Frequent bus service along the main road connects all the resorts along this stretch of coast with Heraklion and Aghios Nikolaos; no links from the outlying areas to the main service. A daytime minitrain makes circuits of the resort and does take in the hill villages behind the resort, but it does not offer an efficient means of transport. Taxis are readily available and relatively cheap. Car and, considerably more dangerous, motorbike hire is readily available.

Local-excursions:
Numerous local excursions include those of historic remains, the most popular being the impressive Knossos and the archaeological museum at Heraklion. Day trips by boat to several of the local islands, including visits to the deserted former leper colony of Spinalonga or the picturesque island of Santorini; many itineraries include barbecues and opportunities for snorkelling. Walks through the Samaria gorge; other guided walks in the mountains and on the Lassithi Plateau, offering insights into local wildlife and traditional life styles. Day-long jeep safaris, mountain bike tours and general sightseeing coach trips.