MARRAKECH
Area: Morocco


Location:
144 miles S of Casablanca and 222 miles NE of Agadir by road. 100 miles from the Atlantic coastline at Essaouira. Marrakech's international airport lies about 4 miles SW of the city; most international flights arrive via Casablanca, which is Morocco's main international hub.

Telephone code from UK:
212 44

Website:
http://www.tourism-in-morocco.com

Position:
In an oasis in a level, arid desert plain; the mountains of the High Atlas rise in the distance.

Description:
From humble beginnings as a mere crossroads on the trans-Saharan caravan routes, Marrakech today is the administrative and commercial capital of the Moroccan south, as well as the region's prime tourist destination. Modern Marrakech, which measures some 6 by 4 miles, comprises two parts, the old Moorish city (or "medina") and the "new city", which was planned and executed by the French from the early years of the 20th century until 1956 (when local administration resumed). As for the medina, most of tourist interest lies in the area around Place Jemaa el Fna and its nearby souks (markets), where there is an abundance of local atmosphere, with acrobats, storytellers and assorted market stalls at all times of the day and night. The medina itself is best navigated on foot with the aid of a reputable local guide. The "new city", with its wide boulevards, tasteful, traditional-style architecture and vast gardens, forms the complementary other half of the city. A tourist area (with the focus on golfing holidays) has developed in the Palmeraie circuit, 7 miles N of the medina. Driving in the city is a nightmare, and tourists should think twice before hiring a car.

Suitability:
For a wide range of travellers looking for something a bit different; virtually all budgets. It is a prime choice in terms of winter sun, sports facilities, exotic shopping and dining, street entertainments and fascinating excursions to the home of Morocco's ancient civilisations.

Accommodation:
The hotels, with the full range of categories available, are high quality and good value for money compared with the competition in other popular Mediterranean holiday spots. In Marrakech alone, there are some 400 original "riads" that have been transformed from old palaces and villas to provide romantic, stylish, upmarket guesthouses for the more discerning traveller seeking true Moroccan flavour.

Shopping:
The souk of Marrakech must be one of the most fascinating shopping spots in the world, offering visitors a mind-boggling array of handicrafts, rugs, perfumes and spices, exotic fashions and fabrics. Berber blankets, jewellery, wrought iron, leather goods, ceramics and hammered copper and brass are of particularly good value and quality. Shoppers should be aware of the local customs in terms of bargaining, and the expression "buyer beware" should be borne well in mind.

Entertainments:
Daytime: the storybook Place Jemaa el Fna at the entrance to the medina, with dancers, storytellers, troupes of acrobats, snake-charmers and musicians. The 12th-century Koutoubia Mosque with its 220-foot minaret; the 16th-century Sa'di Mausoleum; and the 18th-century Dar el-Beida Palace. By the way, local tour guides are apt to refuse to take tourists to any of these "cultural" attractions without including a visit to the souk marketplace, where they receive hefty commissions on purchases made by their clients. A visit to a traditional hammam (bathhouse) is an experience in itself. Nightlife: after Place Jemaa el Fna, the rest is pretty tame stuff _ nightclubs, hotel folklore shows, cinemas with programmes from India and Egypt. The week-long Folklore Festival of Marrakech (June), staged in the ruins of the El Badia palace, features folk troupes from all over the country.

Eating:
Again, the most exotic place to eat is the Place Jemaa el Fna, where improvised tent restaurants are set up in the evening, offering everything from fried fish to traditional Moroccan dishes like cous cous, tagine and pastilla (pigeon pie). The French influence here is reflected in the high cooking standards in most of the hotels and restaurants. Hygiene in many of the more humble (and more interesting) spots is not up to Western standards and guests with delicate tummies might be advised to avoid dairy produce, peel all fruit and drink tea or bottled water. Never eat lukewarm food and always be scrupulous about hygiene.

Public-transport:
In the city by far the best way of getting about is the horse-drawn carriage; there always seems to be one available and prices should be negotiated beforehand. The network of buses and taxis, though wholly adequate, pales by comparison. Taxi drivers will overcharge tourists, of course, so visitors should negotiate fares clearly before getting in. The train station is situated in the new city and there are reliable services to other key centres.

Local-excursions:
The colourful Majorelle Gardens may be visited by horse-drawn carriage. Palmeraie has 10,000 trees spread over 37,000 acres _ a 15-mile drive. S of town, towards Taroudannt, is Tameslouht, with fascinating examples of the kasbah fortress architecture left by the former Lords of Atlas. Farther along that same road are the Cavagnac Dam and its artificial lake, where local potters gather on Tuesday market days. Farther S, now well into the Atlas, lie the villages of Asni and Ouirgane, both well known for their hearty rustic cuisine. Visitors can even ski at the Oukaimeden ski-area (which, at 8,500 feet, is still well below nearby Mt Toubkal's 13,664 feet). On the coast is Essaouira, a pretty fishing port with tiny winding streets and colourful houses.