SANTORINI
Area: Small Islands
Country: Greece


Location:
In the Aegean Sea, at the S end of the Cyclades group of islands, which lie off the SE Greek mainland and the Peloponnese. 65 miles N of Crete and 30 miles S of Naxos. Fira, the capital, is 10 miles NW of the airport, which is near the village of Monolithos. The resort of Kamari on E coast lies just 1» miles S of the airport.

Telephone code from UK:
30 22860

Description:
The current shape of Santorini was formed in a massive volcanic explosion in the 15th century BC. The crater of the volcano collapsed into the sea, leaving the E rim jutting sharply from the water. The event was so catastrophic that it has sparked speculation that Santorini could be the mythical Atlantis. Thira, the horseshoe-shaped main island commonly referred to as Santorini, faces the small islands of Therasia and Aspronisi in the NW and SW respectively. It is 12 miles long and from 1» to 5 miles wide. At the centre of the crater are 2 cone-shaped islands, Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni, formed by subsequent eruptions. The W edge of Thira has dramatic red-black cliffs, while the E side, shaped by lava flows over the years, is a plain gently sloping to the sea. A place which actually lives up to the hype, Santorini really is beautiful, with stark mountains, a deep clear dark blue sea and memorable sunsets. Views are particularly good from Fira, the village of Oia and the top of the main volcano. Settled around 3000 BC, the island was occupied by Dorians, Venetians and then Turks. Today the island produces tomatoes, pistachios and grapes for wine and exports pumice stone, but its main revenue-earner is tourism. Parts of the island resemble nothing so much as one big building site, and there is a general air of desperate tattiness in the main tourist areas. FIRA, perched on a sheer 1,000-ft cliff on the W coast, boasts a stunning approach by boat _ and equally stunning views from the town, which is reached via 500-plus steps on foot or donkey, or by cable car. The town is made up of steep, narrow cobbled streets of shops, tavernas, churches, fast-food outlets, 2 cathedrals, no cars and lots of people. For those more interested in beaches than sunset views, head E to Kamari or Perissa on the coastal plain backed by mountains. The original village of KAMARI was destroyed by an earthquake in 1956 and rebuilt in local style. Its main beachside road has wall-to-wall hotels, tavernas, discos and tourist agencies. It lies under the flight path of the airport, a mile or so to the N. PERISSA is a picturesque resort stretching back 2 or 3 miles alongside farmland; this area has a Byzantine church and a couple of Venetian castles to visit.

Suitability:
All ages, with younger people heading for Fira and especially Kamari. Santorini is one of Greece's more upmarket islands, although all budgets can be accommodated. Kamari and Perissa offer the option of combining sun 'n' fun with cultural sightseeing.

Accommodation:
Small hotels, apartment blocks and pensions, tending towards middle- to upmarket quality and rates.

Shopping:
The beach resorts have mostly practical shops such as supermarkets and greengrocers. The best selection is in Fira, encompassing jewellery, cotton or wool clothing, dolls in national costume and the usual touristy items.

Beach:
E coast beaches are of black sand and long (but crowded), with clean water and good swimming; others are rocky but with equally good swimming. The black sand becomes very hot, and the sea floor shelves quite steeply. All types of water sports are available, as are loungers and umbrellas. Kamari is known for being relatively clean and quiet, while Perissa is the longest, with 5 miles of sand.

Entertainments:
Daytime: ruins of Ancient Thira (9th century BC); monastery of Profitis Ilias; Venetian fortress at Pirgos; ancient site of Akrotiri; archaeological museum in Fira; water sports; folklore festival Jun_Sep. Nightlife: nightclubs, most with dancing; open-air cinema; displays of traditional Greek dancing and plate-smashing.

Eating:
Everything from traditional Greek food to pizza and burgers. International restaurants include Chinese, Italian, Spanish and Portuguese. Tap water is chlorinated and safe to drink, but it is in short supply, brought in by boat, and in high season might be cut off.

Public-transport:
A good network of frequent buses serves all parts of the island. Taxis are inexpensive and available everywhere. Boats serve various routes between villages. Car and motorbike hire are readily available. Roads are generally good, very busy and in places dangerous because of a combination of sharp bends and tourists on rented motorbikes. The height of the mountains makes travelling time between villages considerable.

Local-excursions:
Variety of boat trips around the island and to the volcanic islets of Palea Kameni, Nea Kameni and Thirasia; archaeological tour (1 day); wine-tasting and sightseeing tour (1 day).