ALBENA
Area: Bulgaria


Location:
Most northerly of Bulgaria's beach resorts, facing E out to sea. 4 mls N of Golden Sands. 25 mls NE of Varna and its airport.

Telephone code from UK:
359 5722

Website:
http://www.albena.bg

Position:
Reasonably flat in centre and beside beach, rising to lush and thickly wooded hills beyond coastal bypass at back of town.

Description:
A well-established, purpose-built beach resort dating from the late 1950s with development continuing over the next 2 decades. It is characterised by large, grim-looking concrete hotels, crude in design and bereft of individuality (an unfortunate Communist trait), but thankfully softened in places by tree-lined roads and mature greenery. The centre is compact, stretching » ml along the coast, and it's easy to get about on foot, with the splendid beach never that far from the central hotels. The demise of the old Communist regime has caused _ among other things _ much unemployment and Albena, like other holiday spots, is now seen by many Bulgarians as a haven for making money from the increasing numbers of "rich" Western tourists. Evidence of this varies from benign stalls, kiosks and beachside snack bars in hot competition with one another to black-market currency exchange and prostitution. Unfortunately for a resort billed as being family orientated, the latter is pretty rife, particularly in the larger hotels and nightspots; most establishments turn a blind eye to a trade that enhances their bar takings. The authorities monitor access in and out of town, using a series of checkpoints, in an effort to restrict local and less salubrious patronage. Drivers are advised to carry their licences and formal identification with them to reduce inspection times by local armed militia.

Suitability:
Budget to mid-market visitors not seeking Western-style sophistication or standards. Good value attracts older couples and younger families, although there is little for children to do. Many will not wish to endure the sleazier side of Albena.

Accommodation:
Mostly mid-range 3-star offerings, but mediocre by Western standards in both design and quality, with many properties mass produced in almost identical slab-like concrete fashion. 17-storey, 4-star Hotel Dobrudja, dominating the centre, is easily the largest and best equipped in town, its health spa and nightclub popular venues. More recent additions, however, are showing definite signs of architectural nonconformity with Lego-style tiered and staggered blocks rather than the stacking technique of old.

Shopping:
Severely lacking quality and choice. Limited to locally produced handicrafts, linen, bootleg CDs and paintings-while-u-wait from motley collection of stalls and kiosks that line both sides of the pedestrianised main street, promenade and footpaths to beach. Small Bazaar shopping precinct offers little more than a few shops selling local souvenirs and alcohol, with 1 department store.

Beach:
Resort's jewel in the crown: 4 mls of broad golden sand bordered, where it counts, by a promenade ostensibly closed to public vehicles and lined with variety of snack bars and ice-cream stalls. Parasols and sunbeds for daily hire. Choice of water sports includes motorised 2-man hang-gliders and paragliding. Sea is child friendly and there is an ever-watchful army of lifeguards on beach.

Entertainments:
Daytime: beach is the main attraction along with choice of water sports, often at cheaper rates than in Spain and Greece. Indoor 10-pin bowling centre. Small toddlers' funfair. Hotel Dobrudja's health spa offers various treatments, sauna and massage. Nightlife: various lively hotel bars and snack bars but nothing comparable to sophisticated venues in Western Europe. Most popular nightspot is Hotel Dobrudja's basement nightclub with its regular cabarets, disco and 18-certificate erotic dancing.

Eating:
More formal restaurants restricted to handful of hotels near centre. Menu choice is rather limited and service sometimes indifferent. It seems you can have any dish you want as long as it's made with pork, veal or chicken. A few beachside pizzeria-style snack bars and Norwegian-owned restaurant that serves beef steaks.

Public-transport:
Useful minitrain service (disguised tractor towing wooden trailers) for guests staying above and behind centre, stopping at most hotels along way. Buses to Varna and nearby Golden Sands. Taxis available from centre and outside Dobrudja Hotel _ some are metered but agree fare before setting off, and choose a vehicle that looks likely to reach its destination the same day! Road conditions, poor signposting, restricted access into other resorts and some dodgy vehicles make car rental a risky proposition; if you must, stick to one of the major international firms.

Local-excursions:
Book only through your tour operator. Local companies may appear cheaper but can prove unreliable and uninsured. Full day: Varna and its dolphinarium. Two days plus: Sofia; Istanbul by air; Cairo by air.