KILIFI
Area: Kenya


Location:
Halfway up the SE coast on a creek overlooking the Indian Ocean. 340 miles SE of the capital Nairobi, 30 miles N of Mombasa, 40 miles S of Malindi, 180 miles SW of Lamu. Malindi airport 38 miles NE; Mombasa's Moi International Airport 36 miles S.

Telephone code from UK:
254 12

Position:
Spread along the N shore of the deep-water Kilifi creek that extends inland and opens out into a small lake. The land either side is undulating and planted with huge baobab trees.

Description:
A small sleepy town of ramshackle low-rise concrete buildings offering little to tourists. It is a Giriama tribal centre as well as a "Nirvana" for the sailing fraternity. The "yachties" mingle with the old British Kenyan settlers who have built up a small community of retirement homes along the creek and Indian ocean. Huge sailing yachts are to be found moored in the creek. The local hospital attracts many European doctors who come to do malaria research. On the whole a very low-key atmosphere.

Suitability:
Package tourists wanting to go off the beaten track, seeking quiet local colour and interested in water sports.

Accommodation:
Very basic lodgings in town, with more salubrious choices along either side of the creek towards the lake. Three large upmarket beach hotels on the Indian Ocean to the E, with another on S side of creek.

Shopping:
Local, authentic African open-air markets full of fruit and vegetables. Boutiques are only found in hotels.

Beach:
Breathtaking white powder beaches stretch for miles beneath high cliffs of coral rock to the NE of town on the ocean. Good snorkelling just offshore. Beaches along the creek are not as attractive, and the creek can become murky at times.

Entertainments:
Daytime: diving, sailing, deep sea fishing. Tennis. 17th century ruins of Mnarani town on S side of creek include a mosque and several pillar tombs. Nightlife: two local nightclubs with African music and a Kenyan crowd, plus resort hotels.

Eating:
Limited in town to basic eating houses serving chips or ugali (pounded maize meal) with stews or grilled fish, though there are a number of more upmarket places along the creek serving seafood, English and Italian fare.

Public-transport:
Public buses run up and down the main coast road from Malindi to Mombasa at all hours of the day; beware low cost "matatus" (pick-up minibuses) which are often overcrowded and in need of repair. No car hire from Kilifi itself. Taxis are readily available in the centre of town, but agree the fare before commencing your journey and bargain hard.

Local-excursions:
Watamu National Marine Park combined with 17th-century Swahili ruins of Gedi town (1 day). Malindi town and Malindi National Marine Park (1 day). Mombasa (» day). Arabuko-Sokoke forest _ last of the indigenous coastal forests and one of the most important conservation sites in E Africa (» day). Wildlife safaris to Tsavo East National Park and Amboseli National Park can be arranged in Malindi (1_4 days).