HURGHADA
Area: Egypt


Location:
On the E coast where the eastern desert meets the Red Sea. 300 miles SE of Cairo and 170 miles NE of Luxor. The other less developed diving resorts of Safaga and El Quseir lie respectively 40 and 90 miles farther S. Sharm el Sheikh and the Sinai Peninsula are 20 minutes' flight to the NE across the Gulf of Suez. Hurghada airport, S of the town centre but central to the resort as a whole, is between 1 and 5 miles from the hotels.

Telephone code from UK:
20 65

Website:
http://www.tourism.egnet.net

Position:
Backed by flat featureless desert and the distant range of saw-toothed mountains to the W, giving some attractive sunsets. At least 15 islands, most with coral reefs, lie within a few miles of the resort.

Description:
Hurghada originated as an oil town with a little fishing on the side. There are no longer oil wells operating, but exotic subtropical fish abound for divers and snorkellers. Two or three hotels exist from the mid-1960s, but tourism only really started to develop around 1987. The hotel bandwagon is being well and truly jumped upon by all and sundry, including many international chains. As a result, the whole 16-mile coastline resembles one huge building site. Fortunately most hotels are self-contained and you can easily ignore the planning mess around you if and when you venture out of your own accommodation. The resort falls into three main areas. The central town, known as El Dahar, which has a N-facing coast and only a handful of beach hotels, has the "advantage" of being accessible on foot for shopping and nightlife. Around the corner on the E-facing shore is the other suburb of El Sakala with its old port, even grottier shops and streets and generally, though not exclusively, lower-category hotels. S of El Sakala lies a 10-mile strip of hotels situated between the coast road and the beach. They are all more or less isolated and have no local infrastructure around them. The town itself is really rather scruffy, very ethnic and has little to attract the Western tourist beyond a morning or two shopping; but the more remote hotels can become claustrophobic after a while; so careful selection of location is important depending on personal preferences. Locals are generally very friendly and many speak at least some English. Unaccompanied females must expect a lot of mostly unwelcome attention from the men in this one-disco town. The possibility of Islamic Fundamentalist attacks on tourists in Egypt remains. Foreign Office advisory notices offer the latest official advice and should be consulted before booking.

Suitability:
Coral reefs, spectacular fish and relatively warm water in winter make this a specialist scuba-diving destination. Its frequent NW wind also makes it a major resort for serious windsurfers. The myriad of other water-sports activities available are really add-ons. No antiquities for the historically minded and, for those seeking a Mediterranean-type holiday, little to do at night after your day of sun, sea and beach. Possibly a good relaxing second week for a two-centre holiday after visiting Egypt's antiquities elsewhere.

Accommodation:
Nearly all hotels are on the beach, with the exception of a few cheap and cheerful 2-stars frequented by divers and windsurfers who want only a place to sleep with no frills. Most offer a range of water sports, but potential clients should ensure that any particular requirements are available before booking. Some hotels are in town within walking distance of bazaars etc but most are up to 15 miles S, some beyond public transport and local infrastructure.

Shopping:
Dominated in the main bazaar area of town by innumerable gold shops offering good value if strenuously bargained with. The usual array of leatherware, brass and cotton items definitely come second here. Plenty of tourist tat that has little to do with this part of Egypt. Shopkeepers will "invite" you to look at their wares as you pass but the hassle-factor is not severe if invitations are rejected politely and with good humour.

Beach:
All hotels situated between the coast road and the sea have their own beaches with parasols, sun loungers and usually windbreaks as well as bars, snack bars and their aqua-centres for water-sports activities. The natural desert sand is really a coarse grit similar to that found on the Costa Brava. This does have the advantage of not sticking to sun-cream-basted bodies, but most hotels have supplemented it with the fine golden sand expected by international tourists these days. For those whose hotels do not have access to the sea, there are very poor public beaches at Sakala and near the main town centre.

Entertainments:
Daytime: beyond beach, sea, sun and water sports, not a lot. The aquarium will pass an hour. Serious horse riding, or camel rides just for fun. Bowling alley. The activities of your or other hotels such as tennis, squash, etc. People-watching in the central bus station in late afternoon will also amuse and amaze those who are jaded by sea sports. Submarine trip. Nightlife: nearly all hotels provide either Egyptian folklore or showgirl evenings, but these are repeated frequently and the same show often appears in several hotels. Nearly all bars, "pubs" and discos are hotel-based except for one independent disco in town and a few nonhotel bars. The area around the Three Corners Village and Empire hotel has become the tourist nightlife centre.

Eating:
Lots of restaurants in hotels and, surprisingly, some 20-odd other independent restaurants including Greek, Italian, Chinese, Korean, European, steak bars and Egyptian (but no curry house yet).

Public-transport:
Public minibuses are cheap and frequent but run only from the Princess Palace hotel to town centre and return. On request or for a small tip they can normally be persuaded to continue to the Three Corners/Shedwan area too. S of the Princess Palace hotel you will need a taxi. These are plentiful but, as always in Egypt, agree a price before the journey and haggle.

Local-excursions:
Luxor or Cairo (very long day or overnight). Desert safaris (various lengths). Lots of boat trips (1 hour to all-day) to look at coral reefs and marine life (glass-bottomed boats), snorkel, fish or just swim and sunbathe.