LEFKAS
Area: Small Islands
Country: Greece


Location:
Just off the NW coast of Greece. 70 miles SE of Corfu, 20 miles N of Ithaka. Lefkas Town (also called Lefkada in Greek) is 13 miles W of Aktion airport (located on the mainland).

Telephone code from UK:
30 26450

Position:
Though technically an island member of the Ionian chain, Lefkas (or Lefkada) is actually joined to the mainland by a swing bridge and a confusing series of narrow isthmuses.

Description:
Relatively new to mainstream beach tourism from N Europe, Lefkas is something "like Greece used to be years ago". A mere 22 miles by 9, it has mainly mountainous, ruggedly beautiful terrain, which, like that of its Ionian neighbours, is covered in pine, olive, cypress and plane trees. Apart from tourism, its inhabitants engage in agriculture _ mainly olives, wine, pulses (there is a lentil festival!), fruit and vegetables _ and fishing. Most resorts are on the E coast, which is relatively flat as far S as Nikiana, where precipitous mountains squeeze the coast road to the very seashore. The picturesque capital, Lefkas Town, has lots of tiny churches and old wooden town houses with corrugated metal roofs. The E-coast resorts of Lygia, Nikiana and Perigiali are all undeveloped little fishing villages with a few tavernas apiece. Overdeveloped Nidri, on the other hand, looks like the worst possible example of Greek commercialisation. Fortunately, it is not as bad as it appears at first sight, mainly because of its popularity with the yachting fraternity and a more mature clientele. Aghios Nikitas, on the steeply sloping NW coast, could not be more different: only one proper street, a few back lanes and alleys, all as pretty as a picture postcard (the whole village is under a preservation order) and near the island's best beaches. Vassiliki in the S is situated in a relatively flat valley flanked by spectacular mountainous headlands. It has a long beach, a picturesque curved harbour with lots of cafes and tavernas, plus highly rated windsurfing conditions.

Suitability:
Traditionally popular with Greek and Italian holidaymakers. Much favoured by the yachting fraternity for its sheltered waters. Windsurfers rate Vassiliki very highly. Mature couples seeking a quiet hideaway, and people who have been everywhere else and want something "new".

Accommodation:
Mainly small family-run hotels, though better-quality developments are now appearing. Nothing higher than a very good B-class (3-star). Wiser apartment owners are also realising that something more than a clean bed is preferable, and adding pools, bars and even restaurants. Apartments without such facilities are often not officially registered with tourist authorities. They are usually exclusive to their respective tour operator and are not places of public accommodation or even access, so they are not covered in the Gazetteer.

Shopping:
Lefkas Town is the only place with a decent selection of shops. Nidri has over a mile of shoulder-to-shoulder tourist outlets _ mainly souvenir shops, beach-gear outlets or minimarkets. Most other resorts have a few minimarkets and souvenirs shops. Good purchases are embroidery and lace (especially from the mountain village of Karia where they are produced), olive oil and wine.

Beach:
Greek beaches tend to be much of a muchness _ a mixture of light-coloured pebbles of various sizes right down to the finest which have the texture of sand but do not stick to bodies even when basted in factor 15. Lefkas is no exception, but bigger beaches and finer texture are found on the W coast. Most places on the shore have something that passes for a beach, and all featured resorts have their own plus others nearby. Most have loungers and parasols, a nearby taverna and many have water sports.

Entertainments:
Daytime: boat activities of one sort or another, beach, water sports, country walks. In Lefkas Town, Faneromenis monastery, archaeological and folklore museums, old town and harbour. Nightlife: taverna-based apart from Nidri and Lefkas Town, where a few late-night clubs, discos and bars operate, but things generally close up by midnight.

Eating:
Tavernas offer expensive locally caught fresh fish as well as the usual cheaper Greek fare. Italian and Chinese can be found. Fast food is strictly Greek style _ no McDonald's here. Plenty of sticky-cake shops, but _ apart from the traditional honey-soaked pastries _ the goods often look better than they taste.

Public-transport:
Buses (more frequent in high season) run from Lefkas down the E coast to Vassiliki, and to Aghios Nikitas and beyond. Water taxis operate from Nidri to various beaches and from other resorts depending on the whim of the local boatman. Taxis are few and far between, even in Nidri and Lefkas Town. Ferry service to Kefalonia and Ithaka.

Local-excursions:
Round the island or Lefkas Town by coach. Also trips to various mainland sites. Boat trips to various of the "Prince's Islands" of Sparti, Madouri or Skorpios, the Onassis dynasty's private pad or larger Meganissi.