HAVANA
Area: Cuba
Country: Cuba


Location:
Towards W end of Cuba's long N coast. 87 mls W of main resort of Varadero. 14 mls NE of Jose Marti international airport.

Telephone code from UK:
53 7

Position:
Set around large natural harbour, Bay of Havana, with narrow channel out into Florida Straits, effectively at point where Atlantic meets Gulf of Mexico.

Description:
Cuba's capital, Havana is a huge city of over 2 million people but only one small area is really of interest to tourists: Old Havana. It originally developed around a thriving port in the 17th century, which was strategically placed for resupplying sailing ships trading with the Americas before their return journey to Europe. The port brought riches into the island, funding the impressive buildings and fortifications constructed by its Spanish Colonial rulers. At less than 1 ml E to W and little more N to S, the Old City is made up of narrow streets full of once-grand buildings varying in age from the 17th to the start of the 20th century. Unfortunately, the vast majority have been overoccupied without any maintenance for over 40 years and are now crumbling slums. Though declared a UNESCO World Heritage area, few buildings seem to be undergoing renovation and parts of the Old City look like Beirut during its civil war. It is the strangest possible mix with beautifully restored buildings within yards of ruins and squalor. Once so splendid, now so depressing but potentially a preservable historical gem.

Suitability:
Although not an ideal choice for a stay-put holiday, everyone who gets as far as a Cuban beach resort should visit the country's historic capital, even if only for the day. All resorts offer trips with or without an overnight stay _ the more distant ones by air. Two or three days should be enough for even the keenest fan of Spanish Colonial and ornate early 20th-century architecture, or the merely curious wanting to see the power base of the last communist dictatorship outside China. Go now, before it falls down, gets knocked down or is rebuilt.

Accommodation:
Most atmospheric places to stay are hotels within Old City itself; you can then sightsee at your leisure and on foot. Hotels themselves are old buildings renovated to varying standards. More modern accommodation, varying in age from 1950s to 1990s, is concentrated in more modern, upmarket area called Vedado to W of Old City; tends to be city business hotels which, while offering higher levels of service, are international in style so you could be anywhere. Some tour operators offer resort-style hotels much farther from centre, on NW coast or in inland W suburbs but these require organised transport for sightseeing visits. Wherever you choose, unless price is all-important, 4-star accommodation is probably as low as it is sensible to go if disappointment is to be avoided.

Shopping:
Now that Cuba is no longer subsidised by the former USSR, and since it is boycotted by the USA, the country is effectively bankrupt. There are shortages of nearly everything including petrol, soap and toiletries in general; all food is locally produced. Local shops (accepting the local currency, Pesos) are there _ somewhere _ if you can spot them but often don't have much to sell; shops accepting only US dollars can be found, mainly in or around hotels. Look out for genuine Havana cigars (only buy from approved shops or factories and do not buy at reduced prices on the street _ these are illegal fakes and will be confiscated by customs), rum, embroidery and any local souvenir that may appeal. The latter are sold from colourful stalls in the square in front of the cathedral. For important information on Cuban currency regulations, see under Currency section in Cuban country report.

Beach:
None near city as coast is rocky. Nearest beaches used by locals are at Playas del Este (Eastern Beaches), about 13 mls E on other side of bay.

Entertainments:
Daytime: sightseeing in Old City including many well-preserved Spanish Colonial buildings like former Palace of the Captains General (with museum) and others round Plaza de Armas; Castillo de la Real Fuerza (1577), second-oldest fortress in New World; Central Park and surrounding turn-of-last-century buildings, especially the Capitol (now museum); many other crumbling but still evocative buildings. Various other museums and monuments (both pre- and post-revolution) in Vedado area including characterful Columbus Cemetery. Nightlife: most hotels and restaurants provide musical entertainment (rumba, salsa and other Latin American); famous Tropicana nightclub (still with same dance show as it had in the 50s); a few other nightclubs with cabaret as well as discos, some at bigger hotels; ballet, theatre, dance and music for the more cultural. Famous rum-based cocktails served everywhere, including Hemingway's famous haunts like El Bodeguita del Medio (particularly scruffy and bohemian) for Mojito and La Floridita (wildly expensive) for Daiquiri.

Eating:
Although those with knowledgeable, well-connected or well-off guides may find good food, in general it is of pretty poor standard and limited choice. Quite a lot of restaurants in Old City and around Vedado hotels as well as in hotels, with a la carte restaurants in 5-star hotels probably the best available, but not cheap. Expect every imaginable variation of pork, chicken (some of the toughest ever encountered), rice, black beans and potatoes. Lobster and seafood can be a (relative) bargain but fish is not common. Ice cream is quite good.

Public-transport:
Buses, known as "camels", do run but queues are miles long, they are full to overflowing, not air conditioned and it's hard to know where they are going or where to get off. Best left to long-suffering locals. Taxis are modern, metered and reasonable for short trips. Unofficial taxis offered by touts in street are best avoided. See also "Local Excursions".

Local-excursions:
Several variations of "city tour", most by bus but some on foot around Old City, where streets are too narrow for buses; all are guided and necessarily so. Unless you read and speak Spanish pretty well, doing it yourself is difficult as the few explanatory notices that do exist are only in the native language. Also organised trips out to Eastern Beaches.